After saying our goodbyes to India and the children at RVCV, it was on to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Mysigio camp. Most of the first hour was spent negotiating our way back to the main road, followed by a quick drive to the NCA entrance. Once again Julius, our driver, had paperwork to deal with so we had a few minutes for a bathroom break and to take a look at the displays and gift shop. Then it was back in the truck, through the gate, and on to the crater rim road. We would not see another paved road until we reached Zanzibar several days hence.
The road ascending to the crater rim is dirt and gravel, but relatively well tended. The path soon leveled and we pulled over at a turnout for our first glimpse into the Ngorongoro ecosystem.
The view into the caldera tricks the eye at first - distances are deceptive. Soon you realize that the dark smudge you took for an area of dark grass is moving; it is actually a large group of buffalo (or wildebeest or elephants) grazing. The floor of the crater is 2000 feet below, but the clear air makes it seem closer. The brain finally makes sense of perspective and realizes the vastness of the scene. Covering about 100 square miles, the caldera is host to many, many species of wildlife, sees large scale migrations of wildebeest, and is used for grazing by Maasai in dry years. Ngorongoro is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Tanzania's great treasures.
We were not to descend into the crater today, however. It was already late afternoon and we had about an hour to travel before we reached our destination, Mysigio Camp.
Mysigio is a bit different than the other camps we stayed at during our Safari. First, it is a seasonal camp, so it has no permanent infrastructure. This means bucket showers and chemical toilets, but the accomodations were still very nice. Lots of blankets, though - the camp is high (above 8000 ft) so the nights are chill and the days moderate.
We were welcomed into camp and given a quick briefing on procedures (how to request that the shower buckets be filled, where meals would be, asking for escort to go out at night, etc.). This was followed by a few minutes to get settled and take a quick shower and then it was time to meet at the lounge tent to have a beer and meet the chief of the local Maasai (at left). Mysigio runs a cultural program that allows visitors to have close interaction with the local Maasai, which is one of the things we were looking forward to most during our trip.
Although the Maasai have integrated some aspects of the modern world into their own, they are still largely the pastoral society that they have maintained since they came to this area in the 1600's and 1700's. To call them pastoralists, however, is only half the story. The Maasai are also a warrior culture and the story of their arrival in northern Tanzania is one of conquest and assimilation of resident peoples. The Maasai are proud of their heritage and see themselves as superior to the other indiginous people of the area.
The Maasai live in small villages or bomas comprised of mud and thatch huts traditionally surrounded by barriers of thorn brush for protection from predators. Livestock (principally cattle and goats) are kept in kraals at night, which are just pens constructed of the same thorn brush. This is quite easy to come by: Acacia trees are ubiquitous, and the Acacia thorns are legendary in size, length, and sharpness.
Age and gender roles are strong in Maasai culture. Women are homemakers, learning their duties as children until they ceremonially become adults and eligible to marry in adolescence. Male children generally spend their lives as goat herders and in play until it is time to initiate a new age group into the next stage of life - that of the warriors and protectors of the tribe known as moroni. This involves circumcision and recognition as an adult. As time and their training progress, the young men move up in status as moroni, finally becoming senior warriors, eligible to marry and responsible for the safety of the tribe. Eventually, the age group moves on to become elders charged with decision making, and senior elders, largely retired but valued for their wisdom and experience.
The Maasai we met wore shukas (men) and kangas (women), which are simple garments similar to togas. Warriors are rarely without their spear and machete-like knife, the tools of their trade. Other ornamentation is common, with bracelets, anklets, and necklaces worn by individuals of both genders. The beads are frequently an indication of regional affiliation, although there is a considerable fashion aspect, as well.
We began our evening with the Maasai with a short walk to a clearing. Goat meat was roasting over one small fire while two large pots boiled over another. The chief discussed the Maasai culture with us, describing the progression of the males through childhood, warrior status, and elderhood. He then talked of their diet, largely ugali (cornmeal porridge, which is a relatively new addition), beef blood, milk, and occasionally meat from their livestock. They also make soups, consumed by the warriors, which are supposed to enhance vitality and virility. We were treated to a demonstration of the preparation of one such soup. Half of the concoction consisted of boiled organ meats (heart, lungs, intestines, etc.), while the other half consisted of boiled "herbs" - actually infusions of certain plants and tree barks.
The two pots were mixed in an elaborate manner by the moroni and then consumed with what seemed to be pleasure. When offered the opportunity to sample the soup, we passed. This was apparently a wise move - Julius later told me that his people do something similar but when he returns home and participates, he usually winds up with a badly upset stomach since he is "out of practice". Not for the uninitiated.
We did, however, share in bits of the roasted goat meat, which had a texture not unlike jerky.
It was soon time to head back to camp as night was rapidly approaching. As we did so, we happened on a few zebra who we were able to approach on foot to a distance of perhaps 20 feet. The zebra, wary as always, eventually moved off, but it was a fun exercise in trying to group ourselves together to look like just another herbivore.
When we reached camp (a walk of 100 meters or so) we were met again by the chief and his retinue of young warriors, as well as a group of young women, all in customary Maasai dress. We were then treated to about a half hour of traditional dance by the group, with the women singing and the men jumping and stomping in rhythm. It was a lot of fun, and something few westerners see except on television. We hope the chief and his people know how much we appreciate our time with them.
Our Maasai friends left as the shadows started to grow long, and soon it was time for dinner. It is surprising the variety and quality of food that comes out of the camp tents in Tanzania. The chief joined us for the meal, which was excellent, and we enjoyed his companionship greatly. After dinner it was straight to bed after a long, exciting, and tiring day that started in the center of Tarangire NP, included a visit to an orphanage, and ended with the Maasai on the slopes of Ngorongoro under a final, spectacular sunset. Tomorrow would be an early call, though - we wanted to be among the first into the crater so we needed to be on the road promptly at 6:00 am. Tomorrow would be another long day, but first some much needed rest.
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